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Adding a Jeep Clock I wanted to use the dead space next to the radio. This space was used on some models with a factory clock. I got mine from Scott Backer ( SandS143@adelphia.net ) who was kind enough to send it all the way to Australia for me and often sells these and other XJ parts on eBay at very good prices so email him and ask. Now there are four main types of Jeeps clocks out there and with the plugs being different you need the right one if you have the wiring present. These pictures were provided by Scott to show the differences front and rear. The are the Chrysler part numbers and the dealer list prices for the Cherokee clocks below in case you want a new one:
1984-1986 56000061 (blue plug) $61.30 1987 82200639 $50.00 1988-1990 82200908 (black plug) $40.00 1991-1993 56004588 (white plug) $74.00 1994-1996 56006862
There are at least three different plugs on the clocks. The 1987 uses either the blue plug of the 1984-86 clocks or the black plug of the 1988-90 clocks. I have used the 1988-90 clock with the black plug as it made no difference to me which I used as no RHD's have the wiring in place anyway. Scott gave me the wiring details from a '85 below from which I could work out what mine needed so you should be able to do the same.
For the 1985 Scott provided as
below.
Pin 5 Orange wire "Panel
intensity input" (+)
Pin 3 Blue wire "Ignition
on input" (+)
Pin 1 Yellow wire "Dim
display input" (+)
Pin 4 Red wire "Battery
input" (+)
Pin 6 Black wire "Ground"
(--)
With the battery input wire to
positive and the black wire to ground the clock is running but the
display is off. It needs the ignition wire so it knows to turn the
display on when you turn the ignition key on. Then it dims the display
when the headlights are turned on at night, like the rest of the
instrument cluster.
I got my 1988-90 clock to work as below.
Pin B Orange wire "Panel intensity input" (+)
Pin F Purple wire "Ignition on input" (+)
Pin G Blue wire "Dim display input" (+)
Pin C Pink wire "Battery input" (+)
Pin A Black wire "Ground" (-)
I got all I needed from using the
centre group of wires ( the outside wires on the plug are for the
speakers ) that plugged into the stock stereo. On my RHD 95 the power
was pink, ignition light blue/red, dimmer purple/white, panel intensity
orange/black and the ground was a separate wire that was black. Just use
a meter and check to see which wire has the power all the time, only
when key is on and when you turn the lights on etc. Other years now have also been covered lower
down with information given by Pedraic.
For those with LHD's you can just remove the dash panel as shown here and fit it straight into the spot using the same screws as the blank panel that was in it's place. But for those with RHD's you will run into want I did and probably why it was never offered for them. As the back of it is offset to clear the support for the heater controls etc, it means that support is right in the way for ours. I had to cut the side of the clock casing away and replace the moulded support with some angle iron as shown to get in to fit.
So there you have it . Finally that blank spot put to some use.
The following write up was kindly been given to me by Padraic from Canada 88 Wiring Seems all the '88 XJ's I've seen have the 'total black clock' as I call it. It's easily recognized by two facts: Factoid #1: it's all black! Factoid #2: it has 'QUARTZ' written between the hrs and min button holes. I've found in my research that the dash side connectors are very similar to the '90 dash side version. A wiring, and the '88, '89, and '90 use the same Molex connectors. clock side dash side black A black ................. ground orange/black B orange/black ...... panel dimmer (?)* red C red/tan ............... 12v power <empty> D black .................. not used <empty> E <empty> ............. not used purple/black F orange/white ....... switched 12v power dark blue G dark blue ............ lights on input (?)* <empty> H dark blue/white ..... not used Written on the back you'll find: prt# 8956002291 FOR SERVICE SENT TO: INSTR. SERVICES INC 433 S. ARCH ST. JANESVILLE, WIS. 53545 89 Wiring The '89 clock versions I've found are the flat back bulb lit type clock. Of the two bulb types, this one is the brightest lit of the two styles. I attribute this to it's design, with the light being put flush into the back like the gauge cluster lights, and shining directly behind the clock face, compared to being pulled back from the clock face like the '90 model. Both use the same light bulb type, No.74 . It also uses the same Molex connectors as the '88 and '90 clock versions. It's a pretty simple wiring it uses, having just two grounds, and constant power to the clock itself, and then a switched power for the light bulb. At the time of writing this, I don't have the actual dash side Molex to say what the wires are, but it's wired almost identically to the '90 clock side wise, so would think that it would be most probable that it wires the same dash side. clock side dash side blue/black A not known ............. ground <empty> B not known ............. not used red/tan C not known ............. constant 12v power black D not known ............. ground <empty> E not known ............. not used <empty> F not known ............. not used <empty> G not known ............. not used blue/white H not known ............. switched 12v power written on the back panel: BORG INSTRUMENTS INC CLOCK No.74 BULB 56002814 FOR SERVICE SEND TO: INSTR. SERVICES INC. 433 S. ARCH ST. JANESVILLE, WIS. 53545 90 Wiring The '90 version back lit clock is similar in casing to the '91 casing in material, but uses a back lighting by way of a No.74 bulb, just as the '89 clock, and is green in illumination colour. This is due to a green 'filter' they put between the light and the clock image on the LCD. The drawback though is that with this model, they place another piece sticking out the back of the module, pulling the light away from the clock face, which I've personally found in daylight impossible to read, unless shadows by ones' hand. The wiring is similar to the '89 model, but wires are solid colours [except for the red] , and much thicker than the thin telephone like wires that the previous one uses. As well, this is the only model that isn't sealed, and can be taken apart quite easily once the back screws have been removed. I however didn't do this, as using a similar clock as the '89, once the clock is opened up, the rubber that sits between the clock and the clock LCD face breaks off far to easily. There is also two different wiring methods I've seen used with this clock, one being just the plain 4-wire connection, and the other having a full harness but not being utilized, which I call version A, and the former one version B. Depending what clock one wants to switch out to if they so desire, will depend how easy or hard to do upon which harness is installed. The two harness versions are as follows: VVersion A wiring clock side dash side black A black ................... ground <empty> B orange/black ........ not used red C pink .................... 12v power black D black .................. ground <empty> E <empty> ............. not used <empty> F orange/white ....... not used <empty> G dark blue ............ not used dark blue H dark blue/white ..... switched 12v power VVersion B wiring clock side dash side black A black ................... ground <empty> B <empty> .............. not used red C pink .................... 12v power black D black .................. ground <empty> E <empty> ............. not used <empty> F <empty> ............. not used <empty> G <empty> ............ not used blue/white H dark blue/white ..... switched 12v power *I've however not been able to ascertain to predict which version will have which wiring, as there has never seemed to be a pattern. Just some are, and some aren't. Another example of this that I have run in is with my XJ Pioneer '90. Mine had the harness in place for the overhead console, and the temp sensor wiring. Someone else I know has the same model but without the harness at all. Seems at this point to just be a flip of the coin on which one you have, or find. written on the back panel: 56002814 XJ L.C.D. CLOCK SUPPLIER: ZEMCO 081149 9024C MADE IN TAIWAN 91 Wiring All '91 models I have seen have this model. I'm unsure of '90's models past '91 as I've not come across any to verify any differences. The front bezel matches that of the idiot light panel on the right side of the steering wheel. There appears to be 4 holes that are left for future considerations for lights and info panels, but unsure. Could easily be modified and used for other uses as well, such as an alarm LED, or other such things ( see further down ). The colour of the clock is green, but when done without the front panel on, it's actually the more common blue cast, and is closer to the colour of the overhead console. This is due to the plastic front insert being green, where as the overhead console is a smoke grey. To match an overhead console, this could be easily accomplished by replacing the plate with the same smoke grey plate, that seems to be used in the '88 models. I'm planning on doing this since I have several clocks at my disposal at present. As far as I can tell on the wiring, and from the experience of putting in a '91 overhead console into a '90 Pioneer, the colours following that install would be as follows: clock side dash side red A pink ........................ 12v power orange B green/black ............. switched 12v power ** black C black ...................... ground white D orange/black ............ panel dimmer yellow E blue/red .................... lights on input With this in mind, it would be pretty easily to be able to hardwire this into early model jeeps with the light type clocks. You would just have to know your own jeeps' wire colours as there seems that there was a lot of changes from the '90 to '91 models. ** I would think that this wire is similar to a white/black on the overhead console, and is an ignition switched 12v power for the lighting of the clock. I've tested and as long as the 12v power is connected, it will keep time, but illuminates only when the switched 12v power is turned on. Interestingly, while disconnected for a while, and reconnecting, the clock seems to retain memory of it's last time. For how long I don't know as I didn't test it. written on the back you'll find: CHRYSLER P/N 56004588 NIPPON SEIKI P/N CR-0002-002-NO-CL
NIPPON SEIKI CO. , LTD CLOCK/TELLTALE MODULE MADE IN JAPAN
Ok, so with the clock wiring, there's to two types.
4-wire and 5-wire. The '90 was the 4-wire type, so it has two grounds, and
two powered wires. To wire a 5-wire to a 4-wire is a piece of cake really.
[you just use the three wires for ground and power] BUT you have two more
wires. Basically orange/black and blue/red. With my work on the overhead
console I put in, this is basically for the dimmer switch hook up. The same
is on the clock. I hooked these wires, put them behind the lower dash which
is easy to do, to the passenger side kick panel where the wiring for the
overhead goes, and hooked them up to where the overhead dimmer wires would
normal go. [this is because I don't like my overhead dimmed at all, as it's
too hard to see when I do] Once wired, basically, when you turn your parking
lights on, or full lights on, the clock is then dimmed down so it's not so
bright at night, and damn at night it is bright! hehehe. Works perfectly,
and very happy with it.
If you're putting a 5-wire into a 5-wire, it's already
wired, so you won't have a need to do this as well. Make sense?
Don's modified '91 Clock Don from Arab Alabama has used the idea by Pedraic to add some warning lights into the 91 clock. The holes are 1/2" and except bulb holders used for indicators etc or LED ones as he has used. They are shielded from one another so 4 separate lights can be used to alert you. Be useful to light up for those that have wired a 1st gear lock out or torque converter switches etc. He found the black plastic in front of the original bulb holes not to be translucent like what is in front of the clock. He has used a cover from a CD case to add in front of it but some tinted Perspex etc could also be utilized for a more factory look. He opened the clock cover by cutting the 4 small black plastic pins on each corner with a utility knife. The black plastic is held on by two further pins inside which then allow it to be removed and a opaque lens made to fit. Either replace the whole bottom two panels or half as shown, then touch weld them into place with a small soldering iron. Cover goes back on same way, with the iron used like plastic welding and easily removable if you have to go back inside.
He has since changed it to adding a temp sender from a W124 Mercedes Benz after a
little trimming. [Index]
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